Of the three red wines in the Palari portfolio, I have the hardest time warming up to this one. The 2009 Santa.Nè shows maturing and evolved aromas of dried fruit, tar, spice, camphor and black olive. There is no primary fruit to behold. The grapes used to make this wine are referred to in Sicilian dialect as "a francisa," and that just means "French grapes." The wine ages in oak for two years followed by 30 months in bottle. This is a full-bodied red with a heavy, tarry and dark personality. Only 1,000 bottles were made.

The 2007 Santa.Ne shows a bright garnet color with amber highlights and delivers a vinous bouquet of dried cherries, cassis, anise seed, tar, Spanish cedar and dried pipe tobacco. There’s an ethereal and elegant quality to this wine that is rare in Sicilian oenology. Pretty tones of sweet barbecue spice appear on the close. This wine needs another few years of bottle aging. Drink 2016-2023. Salvatore Geraci makes one of the icon wines of southern Italy: Faro Palari. An architect by training, this charismatic Sicilian from Messina approaches every detail with extreme precision, from the health of each of his vines to the ambitious restoration of his family manor into a modern winery and tasting room. The magic of his wine, however, is his vineyard. Running late after a long day of appointments, I had the chance to visit his property after nightfall – a fact for which Salvatore has probably not forgiven me. Despite the blackness around us, I cannot exaggerate the beauty of this place. Salvatore’s vineyards (and much of the Faro appellation) remain perched on impossibly steep terraces that look over the Straits of Messina straight into Reggio di Calabria and mainland Italy. We reached his vineyard by Jeep, traveling up a dirt path more appropriate for mountain sheep than motorized vehicle. Using his cell phone to cast an eerie blue light, Salvatore shows me the thick, knotted trunks of his ancient head-pruned vines. The lights of the Italian mainland shimmer in the near distance and muffled horns can be heard from the busy maritime traffic that channels through the Straits. Since the time of the ancients, this thin watery passage – with its dangerous currents and riptides – has sparked both fascination and fear. The legend of the Fata Morgana, a mysterious mirage said to disorient even the most experienced seamen, is born here. The rocky northern corner of Sicily hovers so close to the southern tip of Calabria creating unpredictable wind tunnels and suction. Nothing is subtle about these surroundings. Everything is extreme. Importers: Vinity Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com; Panebianco, www.panebiancollc.com

The 2005 Santa.Ne shows tertiary aromas of saddle leather and old spice with dried fruit and prune. There’s a dusty quality to the tannins that speaks to the 2005 vintage (ironically cooler in this part of Sicily compared to most of the rest of Italy). The close is long and finely textured. Drink 2014-2019. Salvatore Geraci makes one of the icon wines of southern Italy: Faro Palari. An architect by training, this charismatic Sicilian from Messina approaches every detail with extreme precision, from the health of each of his vines to the ambitious restoration of his family manor into a modern winery and tasting room. The magic of his wine, however, is his vineyard. Running late after a long day of appointments, I had the chance to visit his property after nightfall – a fact for which Salvatore has probably not forgiven me. Despite the blackness around us, I cannot exaggerate the beauty of this place. Salvatore’s vineyards (and much of the Faro appellation) remain perched on impossibly steep terraces that look over the Straits of Messina straight into Reggio di Calabria and mainland Italy. We reached his vineyard by Jeep, traveling up a dirt path more appropriate for mountain sheep than motorized vehicle. Using his cell phone to cast an eerie blue light, Salvatore shows me the thick, knotted trunks of his ancient head-pruned vines. The lights of the Italian mainland shimmer in the near distance and muffled horns can be heard from the busy maritime traffic that channels through the Straits. Since the time of the ancients, this thin watery passage – with its dangerous currents and riptides – has sparked both fascination and fear. The legend of the Fata Morgana, a mysterious mirage said to disorient even the most experienced seamen, is born here. The rocky northern corner of Sicily hovers so close to the southern tip of Calabria creating unpredictable wind tunnels and suction. Nothing is subtle about these surroundings. Everything is extreme. Importers: Vinity Wine Company, www.vinitywinecompany.com; Panebianco, www.panebiancollc.com