A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Gewurztraminer, the 2009 “Black Label” White has an attractive bouquet of white peach, almond and jasmine that is very well defined with good intensity. The palate is fresh and vibrant on the entry with crisp acidity, leading to a taut, almost waxy-textured finish that will need two to three years in bottle to unwind. This is a very fine Emporda white. Drink 2014-2018. The wines from Oliver Conti just missed my report from Catalonia earlier this year. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; www.winebow.com

The 2008 Black Label White is made up of 60% Sauvignon Blanc and 40% Gewurztraminer aged for 12 months in seasoned French barriques. In a most unusual departure from customary practice, the wine is aged on the lees of Muscat and Albarino as well those of the Gewurztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc. It all comes together in a totally engaging bouquet of mineral, honey, nutmeg, floral, and tropical aromas. Smooth-textured (from the aging in barrel) with excellent depth and concentration, this dry, savory, pleasure-bent effort will drink nicely for another 3-4 years. Importer: Winebow, New York, NY; www.winebow.com