The most controversial wine among the current releases is the limited production (150 cases) of the 1995 Pinot Noir Benjamin Lorenzo. This is a thrilling Pinot, but it will provoke controversy given the wine's huge extraction of fruit, as well as what appears to be a degree of sweetness from residual sugar. Made from a single block of Bien Nacido Pinot Noir cropped to extremely low yields, this wine possesses an amazingly dense, opaque plum color, and a super nose of black fruits, licorice, vanillin, tea, allspice, and cloves. More nuances emerged as the wine sat is the glass. It possesses the viscosity and thickness of an Henri Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape, in addition to extremely full body, and amazingly extracted flavors. There is a slight late-harvest character in this fascinating Pinot Noir, the likes of which I have never tasted from Burgundy or the New World. My instincts say this blockbuster will become more civilized and elegant with another 2-4 years of cellaring. It should last for 10-15 years.The Ojai Vineyard has been producing excellent to outstanding wines over recent years, and they seem intent on climbing to the top of California's qualitative pyramid. Their new releases are - at the minimum - distinctive, delicious, and impressive.Tel. (805) 649-1674
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