Ocone’s 2011 Greco Giano is a bit, richer, rounder and more honeyed than the Falanghina, and every bit as delicious. Truffles, apricot jam and orange blossoms wrap around the highly expressive finish. I find an exotic quality in the 2011 that is particularly appealing. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2015. Once again, I was deeply struck by the wines I tasted from Ocone. All of these wines are full of varietal character and personality. Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

The 2010 Greco Giano is the most intensely pointed, mineral of these three whites from Ocone. Bright citrus peel, crushed rocks, lime and white flowers are some of the nuances that flow from this wiry, energetic Greco. I especially like the energy and vibrancy here. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted from Ocone this year. The whites in particular offer tons of varietal character and sheer personality for very modest sums. All of the fruit is farmed according to biodynamic principles. The whites are all unoaked.Importer: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404