The 2012 Alter Ego is 100% Aleatico (vinified without color) and aged only in stainless steel. It opens with that muted, void-of-color transparency you sometimes see with these experimental whites. The bouquet offers drying mineral tones of talc powder and brimstone with softer notes of white peach and honeydew melon at the back. It feels simple and lean with a bright point of acidity at the back. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. Located at the heart of the Tuscia Viterbese (north of Rome), Occhipinti offers a portfolio of provocative wines from Lazio. Andrea Occhipinti wants to push the boundaries of the Aleatico grape. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines; www.jandamorewines.com

The 2010 Alter Ego is made from Aleatico, a red grape native to Lazio that here is vinified off the skins, which results in an eccentric yet compelling white. Crisp green apples, minerals, smoke and dried flowers are some of the nuances that emerge from this beautifully chiseled, energetic wine. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Importer: Jan D'Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994

Occhipinti’s 2009 Aleatico Alter Ego is an intriguing wine made from Aleatico, a red grape, but vinified without skin contact in this bottling. Crisp green apples, flowers and minerals are some of the notes that emerge from this taut, minerally white. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2013. Importer: Jan D’Amore Wines, Brooklyn, NY; tel. (917) 257-7994