The Novaia 2017 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Corte Vaona (a certified organic wine) is a hot-vintage expression with a savory bouquet that includes aromas of dried fruit, tobacco and cured leather. The aromas are not especially bright or fresh, but they do show some complexity that comes with age. It's worth pointing out that the wine name Corte Vaona appears with much smaller prominence on the wine's newly designed label. This is a 10,000-bottle release.

The Novaia 2015 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Corte Vaona is made with organic fruit. On first nose, you are immediately aware of the ripeness and heat of the vintage that is trapped so faithfully within the opulent bouquet displayed here. Baked cherry and blackcurrant segue to spice, earth and grilled herb. What I like about this new release from Novaia is the mouthfeel. The Corte Vaona is determined and strong, yet the power is contained to the slightly leaner texture of this versatile Amarone. The blend is 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone and 20% Rondinella. Production is 10,000 bottles.

Tight and firm at its core, the 2013 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Corte Vaona serves thick layers of dark fruit, dried blackberry, figs and dried plums. The 50% Corvina, 30% Corvinone, 15% Rondinella and 5% Oseleta blend goes through 90 days of appassimento, then ages in oak for 24 months, so you can expect lots of spice, mesquite and barbecue smoke as well. But this vintage in particular results in a thickly concentrated and powerful wine that is great with cuts of rare, grilled steak. Some 10,000 bottles were made.

Representing a special selection of fruit, the 2010 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Corte Vaona does a great job of balancing out intensity and elegance. The bouquet shows tones of ripe fruit, forest berry, bramble, licorice and cola. In fact, the atoms are not nearly as dense or thick compared to wine's peers. Considerable power and heft is delivered in the mouth, however. This wine can be consumed immediately, or put aside for a few more years.

The 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico Corte Vaona is a dark and opulent expression that shows the best of Amarone tradition. You get the overripe fruit and prune aromas and the thick, sweet flavors of appassimento. This expression adds extra nuances that are simply irresistible: Dried mint, oregano, black cherry, coffee, leather and exotic spice form a united aromatic front. It-s powerful, but elegant at the same time, and that-s no easy feat for Amarone. The 2009 vintage shows the structure and freshness for aging. Drink 2015-2025. Novaia has embarked on a slew of environmentally friendly projects since 2010 including the construction of a low-emissions winery and the addition of solar panels. Certified organic farming started in 2011. Importer: Glazer-s, www.glazers.com