Another outstanding Merlot, the 2011 Merlot Walla Walla has lots of dark fruits, roasted coffee, earth and a kiss of oak to go with medium to full-bodied richness, a balanced, plush mouthfeel and a great finish. A blend of 83% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cab Franc, Syrah and Petit Verdot, aged 20 months in 57% new French oak, it will evolve nicely over the coming decade as well.

The 2010 Merlot Walla Walla gives up slightly more plum, smoked herbs, licorice and background meatiness to go with a full-bodied, voluptuous and overall sexy profile on the palate. A blend of 81% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot, aged all in French oak, it has a rocking mid-palate, fine tannin and loads of charm. While already delicious today, it will evolve gracefully for another 10-15 years. These three Northstar Merlot releases all knocked it out of the park.

More exotic aromatically, with plenty of lavender, black currant, hints of plum and dried underbrush, the 2009 Merlot Walla Walla Valley is a supple, medium-bodied, gorgeously textured effort that stays fresh, lively and pure. Opening up in the glass and showing outstanding richness and no hard edges, it can be consumed now or cellared for 7-8 years. Drink now-2021. Located just to the south of the town of Walla Walla, these classic, elegant efforts are made by David Merfeld. Slightly understated, they are fabulous drinks that will age beautifully on their overall balance. www.northstarmerlot.com

The Northstar 2008 Merlot Walla Walla – blended with a bit more Petit Verdot and less Cabernet Franc than usual – delivers lightly cooked dark cherry and plum dusted with diverse dried green herbs, smoky Latakia tobacco, nutmeg and cinnamon. Glycerol-rich, expansive, and with admirably fine-grained tannins, it finishes with sappy, vigorous intensity, primary juiciness complemented by piquant, low-toned nuttiness as well as the persistence of herb and spice. This handsome offering strikes me as likely to be worth following for another half-dozen years. (Tasted alongside, a rather rancid component and drying tannins from barrel rendered Northstar’s 2007 Merlot Walla Walla disappointing and, by my lights, wanting to be drunk up soon.) Part of the Ste. Michelle family, Walla Walla-based Northstar has been focused for two decades on showcasing Merlot. “There’s still not a lot of top-quality Merlot to play with,” notes winemaker David Merfeld apropos options to source this grape from Walla Walla vineyards other than his estate. That the fashion for Cabernet Sauvignon and Rhone varieties to which this shortage testifies shortchanges Merlot’s Washington potential, is clearly a matter of faith at Ste. Michelle, which has in recent years planted more, including on Northstar’s home property, whose first vines went in just over a decade ago at the time that their imposing production facilities were being built. “I’m proud to be known as Mr. Merlot,” quips Merfeld – a protegee of Jed Steele, whose vision (along with that of Alan Shoup) was behind the origination of Northstar – “and I’m glad we stayed the course” even when this grape’s sheer ubiquity threatened to undermine the project of producing world class wine from it. Fruit sources for Northstar remain diverse, and their range of bottlings has expanded to include many non-Merlots. Active fermentation here is generally not longer than a week, and may finish in barrel depending on the lot. I had the opportunity to barrel-taste several components from the extremely late-harvested 2011 season, finding sap and energetic promise, though in some instances also the seeds of potential sweet-tart bifurcation. Tel. (509) 525-6100