The 2005 Merlot Walla Walla Valley contains 16% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Petit Verdot aged in 80% new French and American oak. Opaque purple/black, the aromatic array includes pain grille, pencil lead, and assorted black fruits. It makes an impressive entry onto the palate with layers of fruit, substantial tannin, and excellent concentration. The finish is long and fruit-filled suggesting that this wine’s future is brighter than that of its Columbia Valley sibling. Drink it from 2012 to 2020. Northstar is a Walla Walla Merlot specialist whose first vintage was 1994. The stylish winery was built in 2002 before Sideways took some of the luster off Merlot. The winery is now dabbling in other varieties, sold mostly from the winery sales room. Nevertheless, the quality of Northstar’s Merlot continues to be excellent. Two are produced, one from Columbia Valley fruit and the other from Walla Walla Valley fruit. Tel. (866) 486-7828;www.northstarmerlot.com

Though it feels lighter in the mouth than its companion Columbia Valley bottling, the Walla Walla Merlot offers similar floral and spice in the nose. The addition of Petit Verdot (about 4%) can really be noticed in the floral accents. Dark and extracted, with a leathery undertone, this tightly wound wine is a bit reluctant to show its fruit at the moment. With more bottle age, the score could improve.——P.G.(6/1/2009)—— 89