The 2009 Drumlin Riesling has a very fragrant, quite complex, precise bouquet, similar to the regular bottling but with accentuated honeysuckle notes, a little spicier and racier. The palate is very well balanced with orange-blossom and jasmine, in need of a little more tension towards the finish but demonstrating impressive focus and well-judged acidity. Overall, this is an impressive Riesling and it will be fascinating to see its development. Unfortunately only 69 cases were produced. Drink now-2014. Gibbston’s ‘Mount Edward Winery’ deserves a higher profile given the quality of its wines. Alas they are produced in such small quantities they will inevitably be deprive a large audience who can appreciate the winemaking skills of Duncan Forsyth and his team. The special vineyard bottles are fascinating, demonstrating that the Cote d’Or does not have the exclusivity on terroir-driven Pinot Noirs. The scary thing is that Mount Edward’s wines? They are only going to get better. Importer: Tamalpais Wine Agency, Richmond, CA.

The 2006 The Drumlin Riesling is sourced from 12-year old vines and has an intriguing bouquet with subtle kerosene aromas developing in the glass. The palate is well balanced, slightly viscous with touches of peach and apricot. Taut and vibrant, elegant and stylish, it demonstrates what Riesling can achieve in Central Otago. One of the more arresting sights during my time in Central Otago was winemaker Duncan Forsyth’s pastel blue suit straight out of Saturday Night Fever. Fortunately his vinous sense is better than his sartorial and Mount Edward continues to produce great Pinot Noir. They are beginning to realize their ambition of producing single vineyard bottlings that augur well for the future. Importer: Tasman Wine Selections, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 999-9105