The 2007 Rosso Real offers up roasted coffee beans, mocha, new leather, blackberries and blueberries, all of which come together on a medium-bodied, yet intense frame. This shows marvelous intensity and centeredness all the way through to the beautifully proportioned finish, with a personality that captures the essence of the house style. The Real is 50% Tazzelenghe, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. Accordingly, it is a more distinctly Friulian red than the Celtico. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2012. Davide Moschioni makes some of the richest reds in Friuli. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

The 2006 Rosso Real (50% Tazzelenghe, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot) is a sleek, polished offering. Well-articulated aromatics meld into a ripe core of fruit as this medium-bodied red opens up in the glass. The Real shows great focus and length in a linear, energetic style. Here, too, the wine needs to be left alone in bottle for at least a few years. Dark raspberries, flowers and graphite linger on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2021. This is a compelling set of wines from Davide Moschioni, a small artisan grower who continues to lead the way in demonstrating the level Friuli’s reds can reach. Importer: Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (631) 467-5907

Only available in magnums, the 2000 Real is a blend of 25% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 50% Tazzelengag. This exotic, kinky wine will be enjoyed by only the most adventurous readers. The color is a dense purple, and the wine exhibits mountain flower, blueberry, blackberry, wet dog, cheese rind, and other singular characteristics that could be described as pornographic. Full-bodied and incredibly distinctive, it is not for everybody. I thought it was wild stuff. Readers who taste it and think I'm crazy, may not be far off the mark. How will it age? I don't know, but there is so much flavor, and the fact that it is only available in magnum suggests 10-15 years of evolution. Perhaps it will become more civilized with aging, but who knows? Importer: Dominic Nocerino, Vinifera Imports, Ronkonkoma, NY; tel. (516) 467-5907