The Moric 2006 Blaufrankisch Lutzmannsburger Alte Reben offers penetrating aromas of smoky black tea, rose hip, fresh cherry and blackberry. Bitter-sweet, bright black fruits are folded into a subtly silken, creamy palate, accompanied by a vivid sense of meat reduction and saline savor. These old vines offer a stunning impression of sheer extract; terrific persistence of juicy, concentrated, blackberry, pepper, ginger; and a tactile as well as taste-able note that I can only metaphorically liken to a mixture of chalk dust and iron filings. Talk about the proverbial iron fist in the velvet glove: this strikes me as capable of being a ten year wine. Roland Velich’s Moric project (about which I have written extensively in issues 160 and 177) becomes more exciting by the year, and the 2007 and 2008 vintages will each mark the inception in bottle of new wines involving the re-discovery of forgotten sites and old vines, including a joint Blaufrankisch project with Hannes Schuster in Zagersdorf, whose 2007 debut was quite exciting from cask. Also beginning with the 2007 vintage, incidentally, Velich tentatively envisions a regional blend incorporating some Zweigelt as his introductory level wine.Importer: Winemonger, Los Angeles, CA; www.winemonger.com