The 2003 Blaufrankisch Lutzmannsburg Alte Reben offers enormously glycerine-rich concentration, pure sweet plum and blackberry fruit, and more of the pasty, sappy, super-ripe character one would expect from the vintage. But because the new barrels were less toasty than those employed on the corresponding Neckenmarkt bottling, they do not intrude. Furthermore, for all of its obvious ripeness, this displays a distinct wet stone undertone which, along with the pits of the pit fruits, offers nice counterpoint and helps extend the finish. Rolland Velich is no longer working with his brother Heinz at the family estate in Apetlon, but is pursuing his own dream, working with old vines in the heart of “Blaufrankisch country” – Mittelburgenland, specifically Lutzmannsburg and Neckenmark. (Only his winery is located in Grosshoflein.) His are wines in a style you will not encounter anywhere else in Austria: Blaufrankisch vinified as if it were Grand Cru Burgundy, and from hillsides (including terraces) and pre-clonal vines the like of which you will not find being cultivated in most of Mittelburgenland. One sip is an Oz experience (and I don’t mean Aussie, mates!). From his dreams, to his vines, to his vinification, to his retro label, Velich is in a world of his own. He calls his project “Blaufrankisch Unplugged” (and Moric – the derivation of which I shall explain another time – is pronounced like “Moritz”).Importer pending.