Leading off the Viognier/Condrieu releases, the 2015 Viognier de Rosine comes from a higher elevation site in a cool terroir located just off the southern/western end of C?te R?tie. Clean, fresh and elegant, with beautiful white peach, crisp tangerine and sappy flower characteristics, drink this medium-bodied, lively, impeccably made white over the coming couple of years.

We finished the tasting with the three Viognier releases, all of which are noteworthy, the two Condrieu being some of the best out there. Leading off, the 2013 Viognier de Rosine comes from vineyards just outside of Condrieu and is a terrific wine for readers looking to learn about Condrieu without breaking the bank. It has classic notes of apricot, citrus and orange blossom to go with a medium-bodied, balanced, textured style. It doesn't have the depth or length of the Condrieu releases, but is a great drink nonetheless.

We finished the tasting with the three Viognier cuvees. First, the 2012 Viognier de Rosine is 100% Viognier that goes only partially through malolactic fermentation and is aged in a combination of tank and barrel. It exhibits a clean, fresh and lively style, with notes of tangerine, mineral, citrus, flowers and hints of apricot all emerging from the glass. Medium-bodied, nicely textured and with good acidity, it is a balanced, seriously impressive effort to drink over the coming couple of years. One of the next generation of winemakers to come up through the ranks by working with his father, the young, yet talented, Stephane Ogier (who is one of the youngest vignerons in the appellation) has been fully in control at this brilliant estate since around 2003. Covering roughly 7 acres in Cote Rotie, there are new plantings just now coming on line, both in Cote Rotie and in the surrounding regions as well. In addition, they are in the process of building a completely new cellar located on the western edge of Ampuis. There’s lots going on here, and if you’re a young wine lover today, count yourself lucky that there are young vignerons of this caliber out there. Looking at the 2011s, these show slightly more linear profiles than the 2012s, yet both vintages possess fantastic purity of fruit and overall elegant profiles. Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

The 2011 Viognier de Rosine was aged in a combination of barrel and foudre and went through partial malolactic fermentation. Elegant white peach and apricot notes intermixed with honeysuckle jump from the glass of this medium-bodied, crisp, fresh, lively white. It is a dead-ringer for a fine Condrieu. Stephane Ogier, tall and blond with rugged, Brad Pitt-like good looks, is the next generation of young, ambitious, well-traveled children from family-owned estates. Learning his trade and working next to his father, who is now fully retired, Stephane Ogier has moved confidently and dramatically to expand this estate from the Cote Rotie holdings to their vineyards that go into La Rosine and those from Seyssuel that go into l’Ame Soeur. He has also added a St-Joseph cuvee from a small parcel of vines in Malleval, next to his Condrieu holdings. Moreover, readers should not forget the recent white wine offerings from Ogier. The great success for the 2011s is attributable, as Ogier says, to harvesting seven days later than just about everyone else in Cote Rotie, in addition to aggressive green harvesting and farming practices in the vineyards. This is evident across the board as these are some of the finest 2011s I tasted in the Northern Rhone. Ogier has 12 separate Cote Rotie parcels spread along the hillsides of the Cote Blonde and Cote Brune. The 2011s were harvested between September 16 and October 8, and because of Ogier’s conservative farming practices as well as the courage it took to wait to harvest until after the rains, the quality of the fruit is outstanding. The 2010s are all remarkable wines at Ogier. Stephane Ogier also deserves accolades for what he has been able to achieve with his white wine program since he began it in 2007. There are now three cuvees, all outstanding. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Ogier also produced a 2009 Viognier de Rosine. Aged in neutral wood foudres, it offers up notes of flowers, crushed rocks, white currants and white peaches. This medium-bodied white is meant to be enjoyed during its first 1-2 years of life.One of France’s most brilliant small artisanal wineries is that of the Ogier family in Ampuis, situated about six blocks north of Guigal’s vast network of underground cellars. The value picks are the wines made from the steep hillsides north of the old Roman settlement of Vienne.Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083