A step beyond the immense 2003, this actually supercedes the sheer massive power of that wine with a sleeker, more elegant structure. Classy, bright, lifted scents lead into a peppery, red-fruited Syrah annotated with citrus oil. Tart, young, clean and delineated, it is Matt Loso’s immaculate, concise winemaking at its best. This can go a long way; it continues to add depth and layers of mineral and texture as it breathes open. ——P.G.(11/15/2006)—— 94