Winemaker Matt Loso dropped Semillon from the blend a few years ago, then tried fermenting in all stainless, moved to barrels in 2005 and will jump to concrete in 2006. The 2004 Klipsun is yeasty, bone dry and richly textured. The young, beery yeast flavors are augmented with light, fresh herbs and hints of citrus zest and honey. Lingering, lovely textures. ——P.G.(12/15/2005)—— 90