Sorrel destemmed his Hermitage grapes in 1996 because of the abnormally high acid levels. The deep ruby/purple-colored 1996 Hermitage Cuvee Classique possesses high acidity, good density, and excellent purity. The wine is lighter than usual, without the weight and intensity of previous vintages, but perhaps the high acidity is keeping everything tightly-knit. It is a mid-weight, very good Hermitage that will need 5-6 years of cellaring, and keep for 12-15. Importers: World Shippers and Importers, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 732-2018, a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620 and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (803) 497-8625

I retasted the 1995 Hermitage Cuvee Classique blanc and it is a well-made wine, but not at the top level Sorrel achieved in vintages such as 1991, 1990, 1989, and 1988. It exhibits crisp acidity, a straightforward nose of white fruits, minerals, and spice, and medium body. It is ideal for drinking over the next 3-4 years. Marc Sorrel produces three cuvees of white wine, a Crozes-Hermitage and two offerings of Hermitage, the cuvee classique, and his famed single vineyard Les Rocoules. These wines are all put through malolactic fermentation, and aged 12 or more months in used oak barrels (Sorrel buys most of his casks from Marcel Guigal).Importers: World Shippers and Importers, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 732-2018, a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620 and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (803) 497-8625

The 1995 Hermitage Cuvee Classique displays a dark ruby color, but it tastes austere, tannic, and hard, with an excess of structure for its level of fruit. This wine may dry out before it ever fully blossoms. It needs 2-3 years of cellaring, and should keep for a decade. Importers: World Shippers and Importers, Philadelphia, PA; tel. (215) 732-2018, a Christopher Cannan Selection, Europvin USA, Watertown, MA; tel. (617) 924-7620 and New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (803) 497-8625

Compared to the 1995s, the 1994 Hermitage cuvees are more seductive, flattering, and developed. The 1994 Hermitage Cuvee Classique is lighter than I expected, with an evolved, medium ruby/garnet color, as well as sweet, soft, sexy, ripe, cassis aromas intermingled with herbs, pepper, minerals, and spice. The wine is round, complex, and exceptionally aromatic (almost Burgundian in that sense), with low acidity, and a round, generous finish. Already delicious, it should continue to drink well for a decade. The glory of this estate is the red Hermitage. In most years there are two wines, a Cuvee Classique, and a luxury cuvee called Hermitage Le Greal. In 1995, Sorrel did not begin harvesting his Syrah until September 26, seven days after the last rain.For whatever reason, the wines of Marc Sorrel have remained undervalued, and to a large extent, ignored in the American marketplace. The numerous importer changes he has endured have only exacerbated the problem of finding Sorrel's wines.Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (803) 497-8625

With respect to the red Hermitage cuvees, Sorrel produces both a Cuvee Classique and his single vineyard Le Greal, made from tiny yields from parcels on Le Meal and Greffieux that average 45 years in age. Both cuvees were made in 1992, but in 1993 Sorrel declassified Le Greal, blending it with his Cuvee Classique. This was the first time I had tasted these wines since they had some bottle age, and all of them scored slightly lower than in the past. The 1992 Hermitage Cuvee Classique is a compact, narrowly constructed wine with sharp tannin in the finish. It appears to have quickly dropped much of its fruit, and may already be beginning to dry out. The only Hermitage produced in 1993 is the Cuvee Classique (which contains the declassified Le Greal). The wine is light to medium ruby-colored, with decent body, some herb, earth, and berry fruit in the nose, and a soft, undistinguished finish. Drink it over the next 3-4 years. Importer: New Castle Imports, Myrtle Beach, SC; tel. (803) 497-8625