Opening in the glass with notes of cherries, minty raspberries, peonies and spices, the 2020 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) is medium to full-bodied, bright and fleshy, its layered core of fruit framed by sweet, powdery tannins and bright acids. This is less tightly wound than it appeared to be in barrel and will offer more early accessibility than I perceived.

The 2019 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Domaine Louis Jadot) opens in the glass with notes of cherries, red berries, orange rind, raw cocoa and spices. Medium to full-bodied, ample and lively, this was also promisingly tightly wound when I visited, revealing a bright spine of acidity and chalky tannins that will flesh out with further élevage.

Aromas of sweet wild berries, raw cocoa and dried flowers, deftly framed by new oak, introduce the 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Chênes (Maison Louis Jadot), a medium to full-bodied, muscular and structured wine built around powdery tannins and lively acids. This, too, is a success this year.