Maison Deux Montille Soeur et Frere Rully Blanc, Cote Chalonnaise, France

雙德蒙蒂呂利園干白葡萄酒

點(diǎn)擊次數(shù)：3220

The 2007 Rully from more than sixty year old vines at the breezy top of the Chaponnieres – represents the latest installment of what has been a consistent over-performer since the inception of Deux Montille. This year's rendition incorporates the three barrels of Rully Les Clous that were previously treated to a separate bottling. Faintly fusil, narcissus, and crustacean reduction aromas (seemingly typical for this wine) mingle with those of nectarine and lime on the nose. Refreshing citrus underlain by nut oils and a hint of honey inform a sleek, relatively firm palate, leading to an invigorating, saliva-inducing finish featuring salt, iodine, and a succulent yet mineral or crustacean savor. This should remain delicious for several years. In the course of its six years, this negociant business of siblings has mourned the loss of a few excellent contracts, but continues to be an expanding source of impeccably rendered, consistently nuanced (and almost exclusively white) Burgundies. Alix de Montille puts special emphasis on ferreting out excellent sites in the less fashionable villages of the Cote d'Or, as well as in the Cote Chalonnaise. The resulting wines are expensive relative to their appellations but not to their quality. (For more about Alix de Montille's approach – avowedly influenced by that of her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180.)Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29

From sixty year old vines at the breezy top of the Chaponnieres that have given an excellent value of remarkable purity and depth of fruit and mineral year after year, the Deux Montille 2005 Rully is utterly infectious. Nectarine and lime play against nut oils and saline, savory, crustacean notes; the palates is quite lush yet refreshing, and the finish consists of a Riesling-like call-and-response of fruit and mineral. The small, five year old negociant business of siblings Alix and Etienne de Montille is designed to remain small and to focus almost exclusively on white wines. Alix de Montille (who is also responsible for the whites of Domaine de Montille) has been avowedly influenced by her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot, and clarity, purity, and refinement are the watchwords in this cellar. “I like lively wines,” she explains, “just as I like lively people.” De Montille has had notable success in sourcing and exercising the necessary quality control over exemplary fruit from some of Burgundy’s less prestigious appellation, although experience has shown that such contracts can be as difficult to maintain as those that govern more celebrated sites. De Montille performed no batonnage, and generally shortened her 2006’s stays in barrel (overwhelmingly demi-muids, 10-20% new). A number of the wines were in tank, waiting bottling, when I tasted them. (A powerful Pouilly-Fuisse from two excellent sites in Vergisson, as well as a rich, promising St.-Aubin Sur Gamay could not be fairly assessed while on their finings; a Chevalier-Montrachet of enormous potential was not re-tasted after malo-lactic; and there were several wines I did not taste at all.)Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29