The 2007 Rully from more than sixty year old vines at the breezy top of the Chaponnieres – represents the latest installment of what has been a consistent over-performer since the inception of Deux Montille. This year's rendition incorporates the three barrels of Rully Les Clous that were previously treated to a separate bottling. Faintly fusil, narcissus, and crustacean reduction aromas (seemingly typical for this wine) mingle with those of nectarine and lime on the nose. Refreshing citrus underlain by nut oils and a hint of honey inform a sleek, relatively firm palate, leading to an invigorating, saliva-inducing finish featuring salt, iodine, and a succulent yet mineral or crustacean savor. This should remain delicious for several years. In the course of its six years, this negociant business of siblings has mourned the loss of a few excellent contracts, but continues to be an expanding source of impeccably rendered, consistently nuanced (and almost exclusively white) Burgundies. Alix de Montille puts special emphasis on ferreting out excellent sites in the less fashionable villages of the Cote d'Or, as well as in the Cote Chalonnaise. The resulting wines are expensive relative to their appellations but not to their quality. (For more about Alix de Montille's approach – avowedly influenced by that of her husband, Jean-Marc Roulot – readers are urged to consult my report in issue 180.)Various importers, including Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA; tel. (510) 559 1040; also, a Thomas Calder Selection, Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29
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