Ripe and demonstrative, the 2019 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot bursts with aromas of grapefruit, white flowers, pear, anise and fresh pastry. Medium to full-bodied, rich and open-knit, it's an easygoing white that wears its heart on its sleeve.

The 2016 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot has a simple bouquet, nicely focused but missing the complexity of Leroux’s Meursaults and Pulignys. The palate is balanced with a fine line of acidity but it lacks tension and terroir expression toward the finish. It feels just a little dumb compared to others. Two barrels only instead of the usual ten.

Tasted blind at the annual Burgfest tasting, the 2014 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot was showing a touch of reduction on the nose with scents of apple blossom, touches of granite and then later a hint of blood orange. There is wonderful delineation and focus in situ. The palate is fresh and crisp, quite chalky in texture with a focused, tightly wound, quite tensile finish. There is something quite noble about this Chassagne-Montrachet, although it deserves several years in bottle. This is a superb showing from Benjamin Leroux.

The 2013 Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeots has a slightly reserved bouquet, a little withdrawn when I tasted it from barrel. The palate is effervescent on the entry with orange sorbet and lemon zest, a fine line of acidity and a sense of animation on the finish. This is very pretty and should age nicely over the next decade.