One of Leroux's finest reds is the 2019 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru, an ample and enveloping wine that offers up aromas of raspberries, red fruit compote, orange rind, exotic spices and rose petals. Medium to full-bodied, velvety and charming, with fine concentration and lively acids, it's velvety and seamless, concluding with a long, oak-inflected finish.

The 2015 Clos St Denis Grand Cru has an upfront, quite bold bouquet with vibrant red berry fruit, crushed strawberries, orange sorbet and a touch of earl grey. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent ripe tannin, well-judged acidity, fleshy and quite opulent towards the pure finish. This is destined to a gorgeous Clos Saint-Denis from Benjamin Leroux, one of the best from his comprehensive range of 2015s. Queue up for this...and don't push in.

The 2014 Clos St Denis Grand Cru has a very refined, very cohesive, elegant bouquet with red cherry, wild strawberry and rose petals - wonderful. The palate is medium-bodied with chewy tannin on the entry, a thickly layered Clos Saint Denis with dense, ripe raspberry and cranberry fruit, though it just needs a little more detail on the finish if he wants to "strut" like the Amoureuses.

Tasted blind at the Burgfest tasting in Beaune, the 2013 Clos Saint-Denis Grand Cru has an attractive bouquet with brambly red and black fruit, fresh with fine pixelation. The palate is medium-bodied with a vivid, peppery entry. The acidity is well judged and there is proper "Morey" backbone here, saline in the mouth with just a hint of brine/black olive towards the sophisticated finish. Even if there is a faint suggestion of TCA, this remains an excellent wine. Tasted September 2016.