Chapoutier has been trying to upgrade the quality of his Cote Rotie since he assumed responsibility for the winemaking. Progress is clearly evident in the firm's two cuvees of 1990. The 1990 Cote Rotie-Brune et Blonde exhibits a dark ruby color, a roasted black-raspberry-scented nose, excellent richness, soft tannins, low acidity, and a spicy, fleshy, voluptuously textured finish. Drink it over the next 8-10 years. The young Michel Chapoutier continues his quest of cultivating his vineyards in an organic fashion, and turning out wines that reflect the soil, the grape, and the vintage. These concentrated (because of low yields) wines are made with minimal intervention by the winemaker. Chapoutier did extremely well with his northern Rhone vineyards in 1991. It is no secret that Marcel Guigal is Chapoutier's point of reference for Cote Rotie. Importer: Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL.

The powerful, intense, complex 1989 Cote Rotie exhibits a beautiful bouquet of black raspberries, spices, olives, and a touch of new oak. It is pure velvet, with a rich, silky texture, soft tannin, low acidity, and an explosively rich, long finish. This beautifully made, elegantly rendered Cote Rotie is close to full maturity. It should drink well for the next 7-8 years. Last tasted 12/95.