2009 年份的 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem 散發(fā)著迷迭香、鼠尾草、黑莓和桑葚的香氣，帶有純凈的黑色水果和煙熏味，還帶有令人垂涎的咸味，使人忍不住要再喝一口。此酒純凈度和明亮度都較高，風格活潑。適飲期： 至少 10 至 12 年內。

The Bila-Haut 2008 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem - as usual, a roughly two-to-one blend of Grenache and Syrah vinified in large casks and tank - mingles pungently resinous herbs, tart-edged fresh black fruits, and beef marrow in a context of textural richness yet surprising levity and uncanny sheer refreshment for a red wine. "That's typical for the 2008 vintage after all," remarks Troullier of this wine's freshness, but I am also amazed to realize that it harbors a more-or-less normal alcohol for this cuvee of 14.5%, even though it acts as though there could hardly be much more than 13%. Persistently high-toned evocations of flowers and garrigue herbs as well as a mouthwatering salinity add to the allure and the finish here will leave your tongue delightedly tingling and panting for repeat sips. The pleasure from this amazing value should be replicable for at least the next half dozen years. Michel Chapoutier's Roussillon domaine - for further details on which, consult my report in issue 183 - has taken on considerable additional acreage since I filed that last report, resulting in among other things a fascinating white cuvee in what had previously been an all-red portfolio, and the inclusion of more fruit - in black as well as white - from spectacularly-situated high-elevation, granite-rich, late-ripening sites in Lesquerde, well to the west of Latour-de-France. Gilles Troullier continues to direct vinification as well as viticulture (here biodynamic) like the seasoned maestro that he is. With few exceptions, the wines sing with clarity, purity, and complexity, not to mention performing well above what on the basis of price (save for that of the "v.i.t." cuvee) would deceptively appear to be their station. (For Chapoutier's wines from Banyuls, see under his own name in this report, as that is how those are labeled.)Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456

From Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah planted in a mixture of gneiss, schist, and chalk, and vinified half each in tank and barrel (demi-muids as well as barriques), the 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem smells of violets, toasted walnuts, cassis, licorice, rosemary, roasted meats, and sea breeze. The influence of Syrah – which, understandably, tends to be featured in slightly larger percentages in Bila-Haut wines than in most of Roussillon – is very much in evidence. Fascinating suggestions of brine and iodine, resinous southern French herbs and exotic spices, inform the deeply fruited as well as richly carnal palate, where a caressing polish and tender, ultra-refined tannins make themselves subtly felt. The finish here is bright and refreshing even as it is profoundly rich. If there are two words I would use, Troullier took them right out of my mouth: “dense,” and “active.” I imagine this incredible value and remarkable performance for its vintage will be well worth following for 5-7 years. For Robert Parker’s review of the 2006 vintage of this wine – prior to bottling – see issue 173. Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in Roussillon – begun in 1993 and moved into its spacious current facilities in 2000 – operates under the immediate direction of exceptionally talented winemaker Gilles Troullier. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract (including some exciting new material in 2008) this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. It is also one of many French addresses where there has been a recent move in the direction of larger barrels (especially demi-muids) and to more sophisticated forms of concrete, and a corresponding de-emphasis of stainless steel tanks and (225-liter) barriques. Troullier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a “crescendo in quality.” Without hazarding an opinion on its causes, that crescendo certainly had my nose and palate ringing when I left here! For reviews of other Roussillon Chapoutier projects, please see under Agly Brothers as well as Chapoutier.Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456