Bargain hunters should search out Chapoutier's 1997 Muscat Sec from the Cote Catalans. This wine, which achieved 13.5% alcohol naturally, is a perfumed, refreshing, fruit cocktail-flavored offering with a dry, austere finish. It is best consumed over the next 6-9 months. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-8900

All of Chapoutier's 1996 white wines were made from small yields, and all possess more acidity than normal, but they are generally dominated by their respective terroirs. The 1996 Muscat Sec is attractive, revealing a perfumed, elegant, dry personality, and fresh, gingery, peach-like aromas and fruit. Medium-bodied and dry, it is an ideal aperitif wine. By the way, it may also be the ideal wine to drink with asparagus.