The 2014 Etna Rosso Moganazzi Volta Sciara is one of the estate's top pedigree wines. This vintage, however, reveals a dark and substantial sense of austerity and tannic dryness that distinguishes it from the estate's other Etna Rosso from the San Lorenzo cru. The finish here is dusty and fine with volcanic tones of campfire ash and smoke. My sample was initially closed, but it did open up in terms of volume and aromatic intensity after a brief period in the glass.

The 2011 Etna Rosso Moganazzi Volta Sciara opens to dusty and dry sensations of crushed stone, flint, talc powder and dry fruit. Despite the subdued and streamlined bouquet, it offers big power and persistency in the mouth that hinges on a solid tannic backbone. This will need a few more years to develop. Drink 2017-2027. Le Vigne di Eli is Marco de Grazia-s second line of Etna wines that is dedicated to his daughter. Her colorful drawings are featured on the labels. Importers: Classic Wine, www.classicwineimports.com; Sour Grapes, www.sourgrapeswine.com; Southern Wines of California, www.southernwine.com; Tenth Harvest, www.tenthharvest.com

The 2008 Etna Rosso Moganazzi Volta Sciara is richer and rounder than the Feudo di Mezzo. It shows surprising depth and richness in a more muscular style for the Etna. Tar, licorice and ash add shades of darkness on the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. Marc de Grazia makes these wines on behalf of his daughter, Eli, who designs the labels. A sizeable percentage of the profits from this venture are directed to the pediatrics department at the Florence hospital. De Grazia makes about 6,000 bottles of each of these wines. A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119