Quite an impressive wine, rich and full-bodied and ageable. Shows a touch of Burgundy in the grilled mushrooms and earthy tastes, but it’s all California in the ripe berries, cherries and cola. The texture is complex, with refined tannins, fine acidity and a touch of sweet, smoky cedar. Beautiful now, and should develop through 2013, at least.——S.H.(12/15/2009)—— 92