Laetitia’s best reserve ever. In a word, gorgeous. There’s a soft silkiness, a caressingly smooth mouthfeel that just seduces the palate into submission. Then the deliciousness sinks in, all red currants, cherries, mocha, licorice, pepper and smoke, set off with fine acidity and tannins. So compulsively drinkable, you can’t keep your hands off it. Best now through 2010.——S.H.(12/31/2008)—— 95