This estate makes serious C?tes du Rh?ne that will easily stand in for a Chateauneuf du Pape. Take the 2015 C?tes du Rh?ne Jules Rochebonne, for instance; this beauty has tons of black and blue fruits, roasted herbs, pan drippings and hints of chocolate in a medium to full-bodied, mouth-filling, chewy and rich style. It has outstanding potential and is a big, rich, age-worthy red.

Possessing a touch of dry tannin, yet plenty of fruit, the 2014 C?tes du Rh?ne Jules Rochebonne reveals an inky purple color (which is rare in the vintage) to go with plenty of cassis and blackberry fruit, crushed rock, and charcoal aromas and flavors. Made from 80% Grenache and 20% Syrah, it could use a touch more ripeness (especially to the tannin), but has solid purity of fruit and will drink nicely for 3-4 years.

Even better than the C?tes du Rh?ne Villages, the 2013 Cotes du Rhone Jules Rochebonne, which was still in barrel at the time of this tasting, offers fabulous purity in its blackberry, plum, violets and peppery aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied, fresh and downright classy all around, it should drink nicely for 3-5 years.

A wine that tastes like it cost 2-3 times its going rate, the 2012 C?tes du Rh?ne Jules Rochebonne has a touch of brett (don't say I didn't warn you) in its saddle leather, crushed flowers, licorice and assorted red and blackberry fruit. Made from 80% Syrah and 20% Grenache, all from cooler, north-facing hillside plots located north of the town of Orange, it’s knockout stuff that has medium to full-bodied richness, a voluptuous texture, tons of sweet fruit and great finish. Drink this Provencal beauty over the coming 2-4 years.

A bigger offering, the 2010 Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Jules Rochebonne is a blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache. Its inky/ruby/purple color is followed by a wine with a dense, full-bodied mouthfeel displaying lots of camphor, blackberry, licorice and floral notes, lots of glycerin and just enough acidity to provide definition and uplift. Drink this deep, full-throttle red over the next 5-6 years. I have written favorably about this estate (which also has some vines in Chateauneuf du Pape) over the last decade. Importer: Europvin (Christopher Cannan) Bordeaux, France; tel. 011 33 5 57 87 43 21; fax 011 33 5 57 87 43 22