Tasting more like a Chateauneuf du Pape than a Cotes du Rhone is the 2007 Cotes du Rhone Cuvee Jules Rochebonne. This full-bodied wine has impressive concentration in addition to plenty of ripe black currant and black cherry fruit intermixed with hints of roasted herbs, meat juices, licorice, and pepper. It is a big, generous, succulent red to drink over the next 3-4 years. This relatively small (25+ acres) estate flies somewhat under the radar, but its offerings from the sandy soils of Pignan are well-worth checking out. They also produce some stunning wines under the Cotes du Rhone-Villages appellation. Importers: Simon N Cellars, Charlottesville, VA; tel. (434) 977-4476 and Christopher Cannan, Europvin; www.europvin.com.