The Kruger-Rumpf 2008 Riesling trocken S is, in effect, the second wine to the estate’s Binger Scharlachberg Grosses Gewachs, and stands in for a vineyard-designated Kabinett trocken which in past years, say Rumpfs, sold less easily in their restaurant or from their private list than did this wine under its alias “S.” A site-typical smokiness, combined with lemon rind makes for a pungent poke in the nose. Refreshing lemon, grapefruit, and peach pick up further pungency from the impressions of peach fuzz, salt, and rhubarb that help make for finishing invigoration. At 12.5% alcohol, this has enough stuffing to keep its lean frame and vivacity from veering into emaciation or sharpness. Properly paired – and for those who like ultra-dry, bracing Riesling – this will serve well over at least the next several years. The Rumpfs seem in 2008 to have had to struggle less to avoid the greenness that was observed in certain of their 2007s. “There was just nothing you could do this year,” comments Georg Rumpf, “except let the fruit hang a long time on the vine.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300