The Rumpfs bottled a 2008 Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling trocken because, in theory, one of their two Grosses Gewachs-quality lots was more accessible; the individual wines were more interesting than a blend; and this permits those of us not able to pay a Grosses Gewachs tariff for our daily table but wanting the character of a superb site to be satisfied for less than half the price. Pineapple, grapefruit, violets, and sage put me a bit in mind of Malvasia (not that it’s a variety well-known to many wine lovers) and subtle bitterness of melon rind, grapefruit pip, and citrus peel add to the sense of invigoration, while primary sappiness and refreshment steer the wine clear of austerity. I imagine this might well still be delicious 5-7 years from now. The Rumpfs seem in 2008 to have had to struggle less to avoid the greenness that was observed in certain of their 2007s. “There was just nothing you could do this year,” comments Georg Rumpf, “except let the fruit hang a long time on the vine.”Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300