Rumpf’s 2006 Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken displays an almost Scheurebe- or Sauvignon-like aura of herbal essences, but not at all aggressively, along with cantaloupe and white currant. Juicy and really quite delicate, this wine’s aromatic suffusion of herbs is matched by a shimmering sense of minerality. While its refreshing and long-lasting finish is perfectly dry, long experience firmly convinces me that if you start paying around with this excellent value in your own kitchen (Cornelia Rumpf’s is the best one for miles around Bad Munster), the sweetness will show itself, soley in that many more interesting combinations (with raw fish, for just one example) will emerge than with a legally trocken German Riesling. (For some reason not clear from my notes, I did not taste the 2006 Grosses Gewachs bottling from Pittersberg.) Stefan Rumpf’s collections may still – as I wrote of it previously – be “sprawling ... at times hit and miss.” But his aim becomes ever more accurate. (Son Johannes is now intimately involved.) This year, the Rumpfs decided to take advantage of their enhanced acreage of a variety that they would probably have given up on ten years ago had it not been for their importer, and bottle a dry Scheurebe. The timing was perfect, because not only did this estate make some of the only noteworthy Scheurebe of the vintage, but in the Pfalz – even when growers are not challenged as they were in 2006 – Scheurebe is more and more getting marginalized as a “supplemental variety,” destined solely for some of that region’s rare wine of residual sweetness.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

The 2004 Munsterer Dautenpflanzer Riesling Kabinett halbtrocken is one of those numerous 2004 Rieslings that behaves like Sauvignon or Scheurebe. Aromas of grapefruit, mint and gooseberry introduce a clear and refined palate featuring a lovely interaction of sweet herbal notes, nut oils and subtle wet slate. The balance of sweetness is perfect to support the fruit and meet the acids more than half way. The finish is very much of soothing herbs and nut oils. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300