The 2010 Muller-Thurgau is a gorgeous wine laced with lime, white flowers, crushed rocks and sweet spices. It possesses striking inner perfume and highly expressive fruit, all supported by lively acidity that gives the wine its vivacity and energy. This is a terrific showing. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2016. In just a few years this small, family-run estate in the Valle Isarco has established itself as one of the top wineries in Italy. The Kerschbaumer family used to sell their grapes the nearby Abbazia di Novacella, (which is visible from their property) but now bottle on their own. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer makes wines that are on the rich side for the appellation. He favors aging on the lees although the malos are blocked. A number of the wines are partially aged in oak or acacia casks. The 2010 harvest took place the first week of October, later than normal by recent historical standards.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: De Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2009 Muller Thurgau is another pretty wine. Aromatically it resembles the Kerner, but it is a touch leaner and more focused on the palate. Sweet white peaches and jasmine inform the polished finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2014. Kofererhof is one of the jewels in Italian oenology today. These brilliant, pure whites capture the essence of the Isarco Valley, Italy’s most northerly appellation. In short, I can’t recommend these wines highly enough.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119

The 2008 Muller Thurgau is one of the more understated wines in the lineup. Sweet, perfumed aromatics lead to a mineral-infused core of fruit. The Muller Thurgau possesses terrific length and fine overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Kofererhof is located in Valle Isarco, one of the most privileged spots in Alto Adige for intensely focused, mineral-driven whites. Proprietor Gunther Kerschbaumer began estate-bottling his own wines with the 1995 vintage, and since then Kofererhof has emerged as one of Italy’s most exciting properties. Unfortunately only a few of the 2008s were in bottle as we went to press, but I hope to be able to taste the rest of the estate’s current releases in the near future.A Marc de Grazia Selection, various American importers, including: de Grazia Imports; tel. (417) 732-4200; Michael Skurnik, Syosset, NY; (516) 677-9300, Estate Wines Ltd., San Rafael CA; (415) 492-9411, Giuliana Imports, Boulder CO; (303) 547-6343, Robert Houde Wines, Bensenville IL; (630) 422-1119