The 2009 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard comes from a site originally planted in 1981 but which has mostly been replanted because of phylloxera. It delivers an earthy, terroir-inflected, spicy bouquet leading to a complex, savory, balanced wine meant for drinking over the next 8 years. Ken Wright Cellars’ 2009 Pinot Noirs range from excellent to outstanding in quality but generally lack the structure, density, and richness of the great 2008 vintage. These are pretty, elegant wines to drink while the 2008s continue to fill out in the cellar.Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com

The 2008 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard comes from a site originally planted in 1981 but which has mostly been replanted because of phylloxera. It delivers a spicy, understated bouquet leading to a slightly narrow mid-palate and average length finish. It is the only wine in the collection that does not merit an outstanding rating.Ken Wright’s Pinot Noirs in 2008 are exceptional but only slightly better than his 2007s from a much more difficult vintage. Perhaps it is in the more challenging vintages that the cream really rises to the top, whereas the challenge in 2008 was to NOT make a really good wine.Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com