The 2009 Pinot Noir Freedom Hill Vineyard comes from a site originally planted in 1981 but which has mostly been replanted because of phylloxera. It delivers an earthy, terroir-inflected, spicy bouquet leading to a complex, savory, balanced wine meant for drinking over the next 8 years. Ken Wright Cellars’ 2009 Pinot Noirs range from excellent to outstanding in quality but generally lack the structure, density, and richness of the great 2008 vintage. These are pretty, elegant wines to drink while the 2008s continue to fill out in the cellar.Tel. (503) 852-7070; www.kenwrightcellars.com