The 2009 Milesime Brut Reserva is pure Chardonnay aged in contact with the lees for 40 months, which shows an aniseed-driven nose with complementary notes of fennel, apple tart and yeast with a touch of caramel. The palate is fresh, with a creamy texture of small bubbles, good acidity and precise flavors. Drink now. Juve & Camps is a very popular Cava producer in Spain, which seems to have improved its range and added a few luxury cuvees to their range while also moving to organic farming practices. Importer: Winebow Inc., New York, NY; tel. (646) 884 8026, www.winebow.com

The 2008 Milesime Brut Reserva is a pure Chardonnay from 35-year-old vines cultivated in Espiells with manual remuage and aged in bottle for 36 to 42 months. It has a distinctive, wild mushroom, tertiary bouquet with fine delineation. The palate is lively and tense in the mouth with that mushroom note lingering off stage. The finish offers bruised apple, fresh pear and a touch of fresh asparagus, all with satisfying tension and length. This is an intriguing Cava with an individual personality. Drink now-2016. Juve y Camps has been run by three generations of the family, debuting their first sparkling wine in 1921. Importer: Winebow, Montvale, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620; fax (201) 445-9869