Christoffel’s 2009 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese leads with kiwi, white raspberry, sassafras, and pineapple; comes to the palate alluringly creamy – almost vanilla custard-like – yet lusciously refreshing and fresh fruit-filled; and finishes with delectable length and the proverbial kiss of wet stone. I would plan on enjoying it anytime over the next quarter century. Interestingly, the total acidity here is the same as in the corresponding Treppchen, despite this wine’s unmistakable extra measure of vivacity and refreshment; and the residual sugar is marginally higher than in the Treppchen, even though the latter’s sweetness sticks out. I had to forego Hans-Leo Christoffel’s droll wit this year and (no offense meant to him by this remark of course!) taste with proprietor Robert Eymael.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300

Strawberry and lime in the nose of Christoffel’s 2008 Urziger Wurzgarten Riesling Spatlese migrate to a palate of chiffon-like creaminess and delicacy. Subtle hints of herbal and floral essences add allure to this exceptionally buoyant Riesling which might (today, at least) miss the concentration, dynamic complexity, and near-perfect balance of its Treppchen counterpart, but offers a long, soothing, subtly-satisfying finish. Christoffel and Eymael elected to bottle no separate one star Wurzgarten Spatlese this year. Hans-Leo Christoffel can continue to point out that an abundance of ripeness has made for “Pradikat inflation”, yet even he will admit that his and partner Robert Eymael’s 2008 vintage Kabinetts would have been top-notch Spatlesen during the 1980s, but not Auslesen. Speaking of which, not only did Christoffel and Eymael offer a complete range of 2008 Auslesen, they also did not begin picking any of them until late, insisting that there was not enough rain during harvest to dampen and diminish the value of botrytis as it collected on the grapes. Noble rot affected around 20-30% of the base material for those wines, an impressive group if not (in its early days, at least) on the stellar level often reached at this address.Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300