The 2017 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is showing quite well, offering up scents of honeyed orchard fruit, almond paste and fresh pastry that's a touch riper than it seemed during its élevage. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, lively but open-knit, with a tangy, delicately honeyed finish.

The 2016 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is one of the highlights of the Brocard range, unfurling in the glass with aromas of honeyed peaches and yellow orchard fruit. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, textural and glossy, with an attractive sense of completeness and a saline finish. It's already drinking well.

The 2015 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent, which was bottled at the end of March 2017, has an enticing bouquet with scents of white peach, lemon peel and flint that offers impressive focus. The palate is well balanced with attractive apricot, grapefruit and quince notes on the entry. The acidity here is well judged and it exhibits commendable weight and persistence on the sappy finish. This Vaulorent should give a decade's worth of drinking pleasure—a worthy follow-up to the superb 2014.

The 2014 Chablis 1er Cru Vaulorent is more introspective compared to the Butteaux '14 at this stage, but there is fine detail here with lime-flower scents complementing the chalky aromas. The palate is full of energy on the entry thanks to its piercing line of citrus acidity, animating and tensile all the way through to the finish. There is something almost cocksure about this Chablis - it knows how good it is and wants you to know it. And what is in the glass supports that.

Tasted blind at the annual “Burgfest” tasting in Brouilland. The 2013 Chablis 1Er Cru Vaulorent has a generous, tropical-tinged bouquet with notes of quince, grapefruit and a touch of flint, indicating the presence of botrytis. The palate is crisp and taut on the entry with moderate complexity. Mango and grapefruit are present here and just a touch of spice, however, it is missing persistence and a sense of energy on the finish. One to drink sooner rather than later. Tasted May 2016.