From a portion of that cru situated just behind the great Preuses, Brocard’s 2006 Chablis Vaulorent displays considerable weight and creamy richness of texture, yet is refined and subtly floral and mineral throughout. Apricot fruit tinged by the bitterness of its pits, and toasted almond extend into a satisfyingly rich, very faintly warm finish. It is better-buffered as well as more refined than this year’s Fourchaume, and should drink well for 4-6 years. Since my visit, Quebecois cellarmaster Patrick Piuze, who arrived here in 2005 from Verget, has been replaced by Nadine Gublin of Domaine Jacques Prieure. A significant portion of the vast Brocard estate is now being farmed biodynamically. Piuze, like many vintners this year, favored racking his young wines off their lees earlier than usual with the intention of avoiding any heaviness. I did not by any means taste all of the enormous range of wines crafted at this address, and including several different labels. Brocard bottled from 2006 the first commercial quantities of three premier cru cuvees under the name “Quintessence,” each representing a broad range of sites that precludes “single vineyard” status. (I place that expression in quotes, since the names of many of the best-known premier crus by law already serve as collective or alternate names for certain nearby crus.) The blends are largely determined as juice, subject to some later fine-tuning.Imported by: Martine’s Wines, Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400
