The 2008 RODITIS ASPROLITHI (OENOFOROS) is crisp and invigorating, with a certain lemon and lactic note mingling on the finish. It is grassy on the nose, somewhat mouth puckering and likely to be a good choice for a “wake me up” Summer wine, light in body and low in alcohol (11.5%). Drink now.Importer: Nestor Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 267-1133.

The 2007 RODITIS ASPROLITHI OENOFOROS is unoaked, crisp and pungent, with nice floral aromas. Like most Roditis wines (11.5% alcohol here), it is light and bright, but it has a sunny persistence on the finish, which lingers longer than I thought it would given how delicate the wine seems on first taste. It is thoroughly charming and sneaks up on you. It is best thought of, perhaps, as a competitor to wines like Vinho Verde. Drink now-2009. Greek Wine Cellars is an umbrella name for a big company that encompasses several brands and acquisitions, including Kourtaki (a familiar, mass market brand once said to have been synonymous with Retsina) and the more upscale Oenoforos.Importer: Nestor Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 267-1133.