The 2007 KOUROS white is made from unoaked Roditis, light and bright, a refreshing, relatively low alcohol blend (12%). It often seems a bit short, but it fleshes out with a little air and tastes good. It’s a decent value--but for a very different style, and a wine with a crisper and longer finish, try Greek Wine Cellars’ own 2007 Asprolithi reviewed this issue, just $2 more. Drink now. Greek Wine Cellars is an umbrella name for a big company that encompasses several brands and acquisitions, including Kourtaki (a familiar, mass market brand once said to have been synonymous with Retsina) and the more upscale Oenoforos.Importer: Nestor Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 267-1133.

The 2004 KOUROS red is all Agiorgitiko. At this point in its life, it is thinning, simple and straightforward. It has somewhat muted flavors and rather high acidity. That combination along with the thinning fruit gives it a slightly tart raspberry demeanor rather than the fruity, cherry notes that young Agiorgitiko can project. This is still worth drinking as a casual quaffer, but you’d be well advised to drink up. Drink now-2009. Greek Wine Cellars is an umbrella name for a big company that encompasses several brands and acquisitions, including Kourtaki (a familiar, mass market brand once said to have been synonymous with Retsina) and the more upscale Oenoforos.Importer: Nestor Imports, New York, N.Y.; tel: (212) 267-1133.