Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy, France

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The Goisot 2008 Bourgogne Aligote – its latest rendition once again proving this bottling to be among Burgundy’s rare sensational values – leads with typically forthright yet mysterious evocation of local terroir, notably fresh lemon, narcissus, iris, chicken stock, and a marine mineral melange. Glossy in texture, luscious, and refreshing, with nut oils and citrus pip adding piquancy to its long, ocean- and seaweed-informed finish, this comes close to tasting like the corresponding 2007’s twin and will undoubtedly reward its owners over at minimum the next 4-5 years. Extreme millerandage characterized his family’s 2008 crop, explains Guilhem Goisot, and even if one did not know that, it is easy to imagine the concentration of tiny, sparse berries when one tastes the superb collection rendered here this year. Yet even with these low yields, 2008 was not the vintage to threaten too much of a good thing, and the natural sugars sufficed for a collection of Chardonnay weighing in entirely between 12-13% alcohol from ripe, healthy fruit.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29; also imported by Beaune Imports, Berkeley, CA, tel. (510) 559-1040