Guilhem & Jean-Hugues Goisot Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy, France

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The Goisot 2007 Bourgogne Aligote – which consistently represents one of Burgundy’s most extraordinary values – is totally on-form, featuring an expression of herbed, salted chicken stock laced with cherry pits, lemon pips, and chalk, of which to my knowledge only wines grow on Kimmeridgian or closely related-soils are capable. Glossy and substantial, at the same time it offers lip-smacking refreshment by way of fresh citrus, and a sweet floral perfume haunts this year’s rendition in a way I cannot previously recall. Given the Goisot’s 17 acres of Aligote vines (most of them ancient, a portion of which even escaped phylloxera), there is no shortage, and if you’re tempted to think that I’m too carried away, first have somebody serve this to you blind! If there is any weakness here, it lies in an overly brisk finish. This should remain delightful for at least the next 4-5 years, exhibiting as much concentration and energy as any vintage of Goisot Aligote in recent years. Guilhem Goisot (whose name has now replaced that of his mother in this estate’s official title) echoed the sentiments of many regional growers that the grapes – while already adequately high in sugar at the end of August – were simply not ripe. But time was on an Auxerrre vintner’s side in 2007, and the Goisots were able to pick selectively, parcel by parcel, for three weeks, as compared with nine days in 2006. Their single-vineyard bottlings came close to 13.5% in natural alcohol, those few lots that approached 14% having been consigned to blends. Sauvignon, with its characteristically southwestern exposures (hail-free this year), was picked last – albeit already mid-September – and adequately ripe.Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29