The 2006 Bourgogne Aligote is the latest in a long line of extraordinary values and wine which – like the others at this address – will test the terroir skeptic, as both Sauvignon and Aligote taste remarkably Chablis-like when grown in this environment. Chicken stock, lemon grass, basil, and tangerine aromas segue into one of the most citric wines you are apt to taste from anywhere near Chablis this vintage. Infectiously juicy, sleek in texture, and subtly marked by the lees, its notes of lemon pip and cherry pit, chalk and salt, lend invigoration to a lovely, lingering finish. If you have been reveling over the years, as I have, in the refreshment, distinctiveness and versatility (not to mention value) offered by Goisot Aligote, you will hardly have waited for my endorsement to buy the latest vintage. If you don’t know this wine, take heart, because there are all of 17 acres of Aligote planted on this domaine. Enjoy its fruits within 3-5 years of bottling. The Goisots farmed organically before that implied any fashion statement, and have long been the foremost vintners of appellation Saint-Bris (Sauvignon Blanc). Their Chardonnays of Cotes d’Auxerre appellation have been enhanced in recent vintages by the addition of barrel-fermented bottlings from individual sites that offer a level of complexity comparable to top-notch premier cru Chablis.Importer:Thomas Calder Selections (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29