The 1997 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico is a gorgeous, refined wine with layers of sweet, perfumed fruit that flow gracefully from its medium-bodied frame. The 1997 Recioto isn’t quite as extroverted as the profound 1995, but it does offer impeccable balance in a relatively understated, slender style for this house. Sweet spices, licorice, leather and incense linger on the long and immensely satisfying finish. I tasted the 1997 Recioto from both 375ml and 750ml bottles and found the wine consistently superb. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. It’s always a bit of a challenge to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli as he doesn’t follow a predictable schedule; the wines are simply released when he feels they are ready. Originally the 2000 Alzero was scheduled to be released this fall, but work in the vineyards pushed back the timetable a few months and I wasn’t able to taste the wine in time for this article. I have had the pleasure and privilege of drinking a number of Quintarelli’s older, benchmark wines over the last few months, and at their best, they have no peers. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999

There’s not too much I can say about the 1995 Recioto other than it is a stunning, unforgettable wine. It explodes from the glass with an array of heady, exotic black cherries, graphite, roasted coffee beans and spices. Endowed with an almost port-like richness, it offers phenomenal concentration and depth on the palate without ever giving the impression of heaviness. It, too, is a remarkable wine in every way and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli’s numerous children and grandchildren. It’s not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world’s most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999