The 1997 Recioto della Valpolicella Classico is a gorgeous, refined wine with layers of sweet, perfumed fruit that flow gracefully from its medium-bodied frame. The 1997 Recioto isn’t quite as extroverted as the profound 1995, but it does offer impeccable balance in a relatively understated, slender style for this house. Sweet spices, licorice, leather and incense linger on the long and immensely satisfying finish. I tasted the 1997 Recioto from both 375ml and 750ml bottles and found the wine consistently superb. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. It’s always a bit of a challenge to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli as he doesn’t follow a predictable schedule; the wines are simply released when he feels they are ready. Originally the 2000 Alzero was scheduled to be released this fall, but work in the vineyards pushed back the timetable a few months and I wasn’t able to taste the wine in time for this article. I have had the pleasure and privilege of drinking a number of Quintarelli’s older, benchmark wines over the last few months, and at their best, they have no peers. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999