There’s not too much I can say about the 1995 Recioto other than it is a stunning, unforgettable wine. It explodes from the glass with an array of heady, exotic black cherries, graphite, roasted coffee beans and spices. Endowed with an almost port-like richness, it offers phenomenal concentration and depth on the palate without ever giving the impression of heaviness. It, too, is a remarkable wine in every way and is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2025. One of my regrets is not having spent time with Giuseppe Quintarelli when he was in his prime. His 1983 Recioto remains one of the greatest wines I have ever tasted. Today the estate is run by Quintarelli’s numerous children and grandchildren. It’s not too hard to observe what can only be called a lack of direction, not to mention a cavalier attitude that is a clear sign of an estate that finds it easier to coast on its reputation rather than continue to strive towards excellence. While many of the current releases are outstanding, the future appears much less certain. However, the best wines are phenomenal and are likely to remain objects of desire among the world’s most well-heeled collectors. Pricing is astronomical even at the cellar door, where virtually all of the wines in this article were purchased. Importer: Robert Chadderdon Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 332-4999