The 2007 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Codana is stunning. If there were such a thing as grand cru Barbera, this would be one of the wines on that list. The Codana is a complete wine that brings together aromatics, fruit and structure in a totally compelling Barbera of the highest level. Clean, saline notes support a radiant core of sweet perfumed dark fruit. Dried flowers, herbs and tar are some of the notes that add complexity through to the finish. This is a jewel of a wine from Mauro Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. This is a stellar showing from Mauro and Giuseppe Mascarello. The 2007 Baroli are stunning now that they are in bottle, but the Barberas are equally worthy of attention. As always, the style is very traditional, but in 2007 the steady warmth of the vintage has given the wines an extra dimension of fleshiness. The 2007 Monprivato in particular is shaping up to be another legendary Barolo from Mascarello. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2007 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Codana is a rich, deep wine endowed with tons of fruit wrapped around a sensual, dark core of structure. The Codana is a serious, intense Barbera that captures the best qualities of this great Barbera harvest. Tar, smoke, licorice and a host of aromas and flavors develop in the glass, lending an air of mystery and introspection to this fabulous Barbera. Though not the bargain it was during my student days when it served as a Barolo substitute for my meager bank account, Mascarello’s Codana remains a benchmark wine well worth seeking out. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello is best known for his Baroli, but his entry-level wines also merit considerable attention. The wines are always released on the late side, so finding the time to review them can be a challenge, hence their inclusion in this issue. I also had a chance to taste Mascarello’s 2007 Baroli from cask and they are living up to the immense promise I sensed when I first sampled them a few years ago.Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2006 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Codana is yet another brilliant wine from Mauro Mascarello. In this vintage the Codana achieves remarkable purity while remaining light on its feet. Ripe red berries, minerals, flowers and herbs linger on the refined, elegant finish that emerges from a wine that transcends variety. Although delicious today, readers who enjoy more tertiary notes will want to cellar the Codana for a few years. This roughly 1,000 bottle lot spends 12-14 months in a single medium-size 7 hectoliter barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello has turned out two very pretty 2005 Barolos, but did not bottle his Villero as he waited until after the rains to pick the fruit and by that time the quality in the vineyard had been compromised. There is also no Ca d’Morissio in 2005, as that juice was blended into the Monprivato. Although Mascarello is best known for his Barolos, his entry-level wines also merit serious consideration. Although Mascarello’s Barberas aren’t as well-priced as they once were, they are capable of delivering tons of class and elegance. Readers who want to learn more about this iconic Barolo estate may want to check out my recent article on www.erobertparker.com. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2005 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Codana, from an old-vine plot adjacent to Monprivato, is even better. While some vintages of this wine can come across as very concentrated, the 2005 remains light on its feet. Rich layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and minerals gradually come forth in a compelling display of sublime elegance. Readers who appreciate traditionally made Barberas won’t want to miss this outstanding effort. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca’ d’ Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn’t decided when he will release the 2001 Ca’ d’ Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484

The 2001 Barbera d’Alba Codana shows the characteristic ripe plum fruit and alcoholic warmth of its grape, but is unusually structured, dense, and firm for its category, almost a first cousin of a Barolo. It is a wine to wait for – to drink between 2006-2011. Importer: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404