The 2005 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Codana, from an old-vine plot adjacent to Monprivato, is even better. While some vintages of this wine can come across as very concentrated, the 2005 remains light on its feet. Rich layers of sweet dark fruit, licorice, menthol and minerals gradually come forth in a compelling display of sublime elegance. Readers who appreciate traditionally made Barberas won’t want to miss this outstanding effort. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2015. Mauro Mascarello is one of the few producers who prefers his 2003 Barolos to his 2001s as he finds they have more power and intensity while also maintaining finesse and a sense of classicism. The wines certainly have more power, but I am not sure I would agree they have more finesse. In any event, his 2003 Barolos are among the best of the vintage, in particular the Santo Stefano di Perno and Monprivato. I also tasted the 2003 Ca’ d’ Morissio from barrel a few months ago, and it is shaping up to be a remarkably rich wine very much in keeping with the style of the vintage. Mascarello hasn’t decided when he will release the 2001 Ca’ d’ Morissio, but it, too, is promising, as is his entire range of 2004 Barolos. Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484