The 2006 Barbera d’Alba Superiore Codana is yet another brilliant wine from Mauro Mascarello. In this vintage the Codana achieves remarkable purity while remaining light on its feet. Ripe red berries, minerals, flowers and herbs linger on the refined, elegant finish that emerges from a wine that transcends variety. Although delicious today, readers who enjoy more tertiary notes will want to cellar the Codana for a few years. This roughly 1,000 bottle lot spends 12-14 months in a single medium-size 7 hectoliter barrel. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2016.
Proprietor Mauro Mascarello has turned out two very pretty 2005 Barolos, but did not bottle his Villero as he waited until after the rains to pick the fruit and by that time the quality in the vineyard had been compromised. There is also no Ca d’Morissio in 2005, as that juice was blended into the Monprivato. Although Mascarello is best known for his Barolos, his entry-level wines also merit serious consideration. Although Mascarello’s Barberas aren’t as well-priced as they once were, they are capable of delivering tons of class and elegance. Readers who want to learn more about this iconic Barolo estate may want to check out my recent article on www.erobertparker.com.
Importers: Doug Polaner, Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404, The Rare Wine Co., Sonoma, CA; tel. (707) 996-4484
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